Custom Battery Cables

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Battery Cables for Cars, Trucks and Jeeps:

F150 & Bronco

1987-99 F250 & F350

1999-2003 F250 & F350

Jeep Wrangler

Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee

Willys and Military Jeeps

1994 - 1998 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 5.9L Cummins

1998 - 2002 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 5.9L Cummins

2003 - 2007 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 5.9L Cummins

2007 - 2009 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 6.7L

GM Cables

Project Snow Leopard FJ dual battery set

Other Applications

Battery Cables for Other Applications:

2 gauge Golf Cart Cables

2/0 Cables for Solar Battery Banks

Braided Ground Cables

Booster (Jumper) Cables

Made-To-Order Custom Battery Cables:

Custom Orders

Accessories, parts and tools:

NOCO Genius Wicked Smart Chargers

Battery and Cable Accessories

Battery Cable Repair Kits

Buy Wire, Terminals, Lugs, Heat Shrink and Tools

Clearance and discount cables.

Rush Orders.

Technical Info and Other Useful Stuff:

Do You Need New Cables?

Battery Cable Tips and Tricks

Different types of Cable Ends

Different Wire Types

What size cable do you need?

Wire size, thickness, amperage

Battery Isolators

Customer Cars

FAQs

Links

How we assemble cables

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I'm always getting asked ďDo I need new cables?Ē.  Iím always puzzled by the question since I canít really lift the hood and inspect the old ones by email.  However there are a few things to look for that are dead giveaways that itís time for new cablesÖ

Physical Issues:

Corrosion:
This is most often caused by the cables being attacked by the sulfuric acid in the battery.
  Batteries can leak acidic fumes where the battery posts come thru the plastic housing.  It gets worse when some idiot at the local discount store beats the battery terminal on with a hammer.  (I've seen them do it. I've even seen them do it even after I told them it would damage the battery.) This causes cracks and damage to the fragile post-to-case seal.  Using the battery washers helps create another barrier to the fumes.  Sometimes the corrosion is hidden under the insulation.  Look for wires that are swelled up near the ends or near cracks in the insulation.  The green fuzz that forms on the wires is copper sulfate and is poisonous to both plants and animals.  Wear safety glasses, gloves and other protective gear and always wash your hands.

Cracks:
Cracks in the insulation are points where acid can enter and attack the wire. If they haven't started corroding yet, you can pretty much bet that they will eventually.

 

Burnt Cables:
Cables can burn from contact with headers or other exhaust components.  If the cables are undersized they can quickly get very hot especially during extended or excessive cranking.
  Sometimes they get so hot that the insulation actually melts or burns.  Also look for insulation that is misshapen or deformed from melting and then cooling into its new shape.


Damaged Terminals:
If you look closely you will see that this factory lead terminal is cracked. This could be due to many reasons but often it's from over tightening especially if connecting additional wires under the battery bolt.  If you need to connect extra wires, buy cables with terminals with extra wire capability or get extra wire nuts/bolts.  I tighten them until I can no longer twist the terminal on the post then I go an extra 1/4 or 1/2 turn.   To get a good electrical connection, you need a good mechanical connection.  It needs to be clean and tight but over tightening doesnít make it work any better.  

Electrical Issues:
Electrical problems are much harder to find than physical issues. You canít just look at the wire and tell if thereís an electrical problem. If the wire is getting hot during cranking, it probably has a hidden defect or is undersized.  

Testing:
The rule of thumb is there should be less than 0.5V voltage drop, round-trip from the positive battery post to negative battery post during cranking. This can be measured with a voltmeter. Put one lead on the positive battery post and the other on the starter stud. Have an assistant crank the engine and record the voltage while the engine is cranking. Do the same thing for the negative side. Put one lead on the starter case and the other on the negative post of the battery and measure the voltage with the engine cranking.  Add the two numbers together and the sum should be less than 0.5 V.

 

 

 

 

 

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email: sales@custombatterycables.com

Phone: (785)-4cables

Revised: 01/03/15.